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Vacation Travel

A 14-day journey exploring Costa Rica, Panama rainforests

Nick Kontis
Special to USA TODAY
Jan. 16, 2023, 5:00 a.m. ET
The tropical rainforests of Costa Rica and Panama are two of the most biologically diverse on our planet. A 14-day journey with Aurora Expeditions, aboard the high-tech vessel Greg Mortimer , is a great way to explore the region. Costa Rica ’ s Manuel Antonio and Corcovado National Parks are home to sloths, parrots, macaws and four species of monkeys — capuchin, howler, spider and squirrel. Coiba National Marine Park in Panama reveals a wealth of oceanic creatures, alone snorkeling in colorful reefs, kayaking through a tranquil bay and stand-up paddle boarding. Also in Panama, travelers may visit a village of the indigenous Ember á Drua people or take a guided tour of Panama City ’ s charismatic old town, “ Casco Viejo, ” a historic melting pot of Central American cultures. A day crossing of the remarkable Panama Canal, transiting the locks from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea, is a bucket-list experience. The voyage ends in the Colombian city of Cartagena de Indias. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to a bustling Afro-Caribbean culture and a colorful and well-preserved Old Town. In April 2022, I traveled with Aurora Expeditions from San Jose, Costa Rica, to Cartagena, Colombia — 15 days with seven stops in natural environments.
The tropical rainforests of Costa Rica and Panama are two of the most biologically diverse on our planet. A 14-day journey with Aurora Expeditions, aboard the high-tech vessel Greg Mortimer, is a great way to explore the region.

Costa Rica’s Manuel Antonio and Corcovado National Parks are home to sloths, parrots, macaws and four species of monkeys — capuchin, howler, spider and squirrel. Coiba National Marine Park in Panama reveals a wealth of oceanic creatures, alone snorkeling in colorful reefs, kayaking through a tranquil bay and stand-up paddle boarding.

Also in Panama, travelers may visit a village of the indigenous Emberá Drua people or take a guided tour of Panama City’s charismatic old town, “Casco Viejo,” a historic melting pot of Central American cultures. A day crossing of the remarkable Panama Canal, transiting the locks from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea, is a bucket-list experience.

The voyage ends in the Colombian city of Cartagena de Indias. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to a bustling Afro-Caribbean culture and a colorful and well-preserved Old Town.

In April 2022, I traveled with Aurora Expeditions from San Jose, Costa Rica, to Cartagena, Colombia — 15 days with seven stops in natural environments.
Nick Kontis
After one night in Costa Rica ' s capital city, San Jos é , we were transported 90 minutes by deluxe buses to the Puntarenas cruise terminal. Upon arrival, we were greeted by music and dancers before boarding the Greg Mortimer.
After one night in Costa Rica's capital city, San José, we were transported 90 minutes by deluxe buses to the Puntarenas cruise terminal. Upon arrival, we were greeted by music and dancers before boarding the Greg Mortimer.
Nick Kontis
Costa Rica ’ s most storied national park, Manuel Antonio, is one of the first stops of the expedition. Alive with the calls of birds and monkeys, it flaunts white sand beaches, coral reefs, and a rugged rainforest interior. Manicured hiking trails make its backcountry easily accessible.
Costa Rica’s most storied national park, Manuel Antonio, is one of the first stops of the expedition. Alive with the calls of birds and monkeys, it flaunts white sand beaches, coral reefs, and a rugged rainforest interior. Manicured hiking trails make its backcountry easily accessible.
Nick Kontis
Expeditioners hike well-trodden trails through thick rainforests to catch glimpses of such wildlife as noisy monkeys, lazy sloths, toucans and lizards. The pristine coastlines of Costa Rica and Panama offer an array of adventures. The best time to visit is between December through April, when it rains less.
Expeditioners hike well-trodden trails through thick rainforests to catch glimpses of such wildlife as noisy monkeys, lazy sloths, toucans and lizards. The pristine coastlines of Costa Rica and Panama offer an array of adventures. The best time to visit is between December through April, when it rains less.
Nick Kontis
Costa Rica is of similar size to the country of Denmark and the state of West Virginia. As larger ships cannot get near remote coastlines, an expedition sailing is the best way to get up close and personal with monkeys. Costa Rica has more than 100 species of mammals and close to 200 birds. White-faced capuchin monkeys are easily spotted in all of its parks.
Costa Rica is of similar size to the country of Denmark and the state of West Virginia. As larger ships cannot get near remote coastlines, an expedition sailing is the best way to get up close and personal with monkeys. Costa Rica has more than 100 species of mammals and close to 200 birds. White-faced capuchin monkeys are easily spotted in all of its parks.
Nick Kontis
The jungles of Costa Rica showcase some of the most extraordinary biodiversity in the world. In Manuel Antonio and Corcovado parks, sluggish sloths found high in tree tops were most impressive. Our professionally trained naturalist guide pointed them out to our untrained eyes.
The jungles of Costa Rica showcase some of the most extraordinary biodiversity in the world. In Manuel Antonio and Corcovado parks, sluggish sloths found high in tree tops were most impressive. Our professionally trained naturalist guide pointed them out to our untrained eyes.
Nick Kontis
Aurora Expeditions purpose-built, environmentally friendly expedition ships, the Greg Mortimer and Sylvia Earle, travel with fewer people to remote coastlines that larger vessels can ' t access. Accommodating fewer than 150 guests, they feature the state-of-the-art Norwegian-designed Ulstein X-Bow, stabilizes the large boats for smoother rides in rough seas.
Aurora Expeditions purpose-built, environmentally friendly expedition ships, the Greg Mortimer and Sylvia Earle, travel with fewer people to remote coastlines that larger vessels can't access. Accommodating fewer than 150 guests, they feature the state-of-the-art Norwegian-designed Ulstein X-Bow, stabilizes the large boats for smoother rides in rough seas.
Nick Kontis
Exceptionally fortuitous was the sighting of a caiman in Corcovado National Park. They are found in freshwater river beds and streams. Some reptiles make it onto beaches and can adapt to salt water. Unlike the American crocodile, which is known to attack humans, the caiman usually is not a threat to humans.
Exceptionally fortuitous was the sighting of a caiman in Corcovado National Park. They are found in freshwater river beds and streams. Some reptiles make it onto beaches and can adapt to salt water. Unlike the American crocodile, which is known to attack humans, the caiman usually is not a threat to humans.
Nick Kontis
Corcovado National Park in southwestern Costa Rica is the largest park in the country, protecting around a third (164 square miles) of the Osa Peninsula. The park is home to 140 mammal species, 370 bird species, 40 freshwater fish, 117 amphibians, and 10,000-plus insect species.
Corcovado National Park in southwestern Costa Rica is the largest park in the country, protecting around a third (164 square miles) of the Osa Peninsula. The park is home to 140 mammal species, 370 bird species, 40 freshwater fish, 117 amphibians, and 10,000-plus insect species.
Nick Kontis
Several of the six toucan species Toucans roam tall trees in Costa Rica ' s rainforests and cloud forests. Many times they are spotted in pairs around fruit trees. Among the most impressive is the Kill-Billed Toucan, characterized by its rainbow-colored beak. While they are primarily found around Arenal Volcano, my group was fortunate to spot a pair on a nature hike.
Several of the six toucan species Toucans roam tall trees in Costa Rica's rainforests and cloud forests. Many times they are spotted in pairs around fruit trees. Among the most impressive is the Kill-Billed Toucan, characterized by its rainbow-colored beak. While they are primarily found around Arenal Volcano, my group was fortunate to spot a pair on a nature hike.
Nick Kontis
Unlike mainstream cruising, the focus on expedition sailings is the adventure showcased in multiple landings and less about the ship itself. Zodiacs and other small motorized boats are essential to expedition cruises to reach rugged shores on beach landings and explore hidden inlets, getting up close to discover new ecosystems.
Unlike mainstream cruising, the focus on expedition sailings is the adventure showcased in multiple landings and less about the ship itself. Zodiacs and other small motorized boats are essential to expedition cruises to reach rugged shores on beach landings and explore hidden inlets, getting up close to discover new ecosystems.
Nick Kontis
A black iguana graces our presence on a nature hike in Manuel Antonio park.
A black iguana graces our presence on a nature hike in Manuel Antonio park.
Nick Kontis
The brightly-hued scarlet macaw is native to both Costa Rica and Panama. On the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica, an estimated 1,500 exist in tropical lowland forests. On a nature hike, I spotted these two traversing tree branches in the Osa Peninsula flaunting their vivid rainbow of colored feathers.
The brightly-hued scarlet macaw is native to both Costa Rica and Panama. On the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica, an estimated 1,500 exist in tropical lowland forests. On a nature hike, I spotted these two traversing tree branches in the Osa Peninsula flaunting their vivid rainbow of colored feathers.
Nick Kontis
Typical days involve zodiac landings. An excursion to Saladero in Golfito, in the south of Costa Rica near the border of Panama, is the last stop before entering Panamanian waters.
Typical days involve zodiac landings. An excursion to Saladero in Golfito, in the south of Costa Rica near the border of Panama, is the last stop before entering Panamanian waters.
Nick Kontis
Costa Rica showcases around 25 species of whales, manatees and dolphins. While sightings of dolphins or whales can never be guaranteed, we spotted groups of bottlenose dolphins on zodiac groups of 5 to 6 per boat, as we traversed the Osa Peninsula. At least five species live in Costa Rican waters year-round.
Costa Rica showcases around 25 species of whales, manatees and dolphins. While sightings of dolphins or whales can never be guaranteed, we spotted groups of bottlenose dolphins on zodiac groups of 5 to 6 per boat, as we traversed the Osa Peninsula. At least five species live in Costa Rican waters year-round.
Nick Kontis
The Greg Mortimer is a comfortable expedition ship. Observation decks, spread throughout the boat, are ideal for mingling with crew and other guests, and for enjoying scenic views, especially sunsets. Decks 7 and 8 feature expanded decks.
The Greg Mortimer is a comfortable expedition ship. Observation decks, spread throughout the boat, are ideal for mingling with crew and other guests, and for enjoying scenic views, especially sunsets. Decks 7 and 8 feature expanded decks.
Nick Kontis
In Panama ' s Coiba National Marine Park, we could relax on the beach, kayak or paddleboard a halcyon bay. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Coiba includes 38 islands with astounding biodiversity. Around three dozen species of whales and dolphins have been identified.
In Panama's Coiba National Marine Park, we could relax on the beach, kayak or paddleboard a halcyon bay. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Coiba includes 38 islands with astounding biodiversity. Around three dozen species of whales and dolphins have been identified.
Nick Kontis
These large, durable, rigid-bottomed boats are the lifeline of expedition cruises. They take people ashore and cover natural areas close to shorelines, and out to sea in search of marine life. From Central American jungles to icy polar terrain, these small boats can access almost anywhere.
These large, durable, rigid-bottomed boats are the lifeline of expedition cruises. They take people ashore and cover natural areas close to shorelines, and out to sea in search of marine life. From Central American jungles to icy polar terrain, these small boats can access almost anywhere.
Nick Kontis
Panamanian locals as well as tourists, many of whom arrive by private yacht, enjoy visiting the Pearl Islands, with í ts 90 islands and 140 islets. Tiny Bartholome provides excellent kayaking, paddleboarding and colorful snorkeling.
Panamanian locals as well as tourists, many of whom arrive by private yacht, enjoy visiting the Pearl Islands, with íts 90 islands and 140 islets. Tiny Bartholome provides excellent kayaking, paddleboarding and colorful snorkeling.
Nick Kontis
Several species of turtles and many other marine mammals live in the waters of Panama ' s Gulf of Chiriqui at Coiba National Marine Park. They are easily seen by snorkelers. Once a penal colony, Coiba and its 38 islands were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005.
Several species of turtles and many other marine mammals live in the waters of Panama's Gulf of Chiriqui at Coiba National Marine Park. They are easily seen by snorkelers. Once a penal colony, Coiba and its 38 islands were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005.
Nick Kontis
Costa Rica and Panama are a paradise for ecologists, with their incredible biodiversity of plants. Stunning foliage is everywhere. Ginger flowers, heliconias, dry orchids, rare frangipani, birds of paradise, and other beautiful tropical flowers are found throughout the region on nature walks.
Costa Rica and Panama are a paradise for ecologists, with their incredible biodiversity of plants. Stunning foliage is everywhere. Ginger flowers, heliconias, dry orchids, rare frangipani, birds of paradise, and other beautiful tropical flowers are found throughout the region on nature walks.
Nick Kontis
In Panama, a highlight of the expedition is a stopover at the indigenous Ember á Drua village. Cultural eco-tourism provides the native tribe income while tourists catch a glimpse into their domestic lifestyle. Hand-crafted art is sold to help support the community. The homeland of the Embera tribe is the undeveloped rural and rugged jungles of the Darien region of Panama. Their village is now easily accessible in Chagres National Park.
In Panama, a highlight of the expedition is a stopover at the indigenous Emberá Drua village. Cultural eco-tourism provides the native tribe income while tourists catch a glimpse into their domestic lifestyle. Hand-crafted art is sold to help support the community.

The homeland of the Embera tribe is the undeveloped rural and rugged jungles of the Darien region of Panama. Their village is now easily accessible in Chagres National Park.
Nick Kontis
Casco Viejo trails around the four vibrant plazas of Francia, Bolivar, Herrera and Independencia. Buildings contrast sharply between refurbished and decayed. On many corners, hawkers attempted to sell us touristy knickknacks; on others, we were left alone. We were free to stroll the trendy cafes and street art.
Casco Viejo trails around the four vibrant plazas of Francia, Bolivar, Herrera and Independencia. Buildings contrast sharply between refurbished and decayed. On many corners, hawkers attempted to sell us touristy knickknacks; on others, we were left alone. We were free to stroll the trendy cafes and street art.
Nick Kontis
On a guided walking tour of Panama City ' s most dynamic neighborhood, we strolled the narrow cobblestone streets of UNESCO-acclaimed Casco Viejo (Old Town), its kaleidoscope of restored buildings graced by wrought-iron balconies. Although small, the enclave boasts the city ' s top restaurants, hippest bar scene, and nightlife.
On a guided walking tour of Panama City's most dynamic neighborhood, we strolled the narrow cobblestone streets of UNESCO-acclaimed Casco Viejo (Old Town), its kaleidoscope of restored buildings graced by wrought-iron balconies. Although small, the enclave boasts the city's top restaurants, hippest bar scene, and nightlife.
Nick Kontis
The famous Panama hats didn ’ t originally come from Panama: They were born in Ecuador. But once exported to Panama, as a significant hub for travelers from the U.S. and elsewhere, they became enormously commercialized. Many shops in Panama City ' s old town of Casco Viejo sell the popular hats starting at around $20.
The famous Panama hats didn’t originally come from Panama: They were born in Ecuador. But once exported to Panama, as a significant hub for travelers from the U.S. and elsewhere, they became enormously commercialized. Many shops in Panama City's old town of Casco Viejo sell the popular hats starting at around $20.
Nick Kontis
For many travelers, cruising the 50 miles of the Panama Canal, from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea via the jungles of Panama, is an adventure of a lifetime. Aurora Expeditions guarantees a daylight crossing of one of the seven wonders of the modern world and the world ' s most famous canal. The cruise season runs from October through April. Expert expedition guides explain the history and workings of the channel.
For many travelers, cruising the 50 miles of the Panama Canal, from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea via the jungles of Panama, is an adventure of a lifetime. Aurora Expeditions guarantees a daylight crossing of one of the seven wonders of the modern world and the world's most famous canal. The cruise season runs from October through April. Expert expedition guides explain the history and workings of the channel.
Nick Kontis
The history of the Panama Canal is fascinating. Started by the French in 1881, it took 33 years before it was completed by the U.S. in 1914. In addition to gorgeous, lush scenery, the canal transit allows travelers to observe its many working locks, displaying how they lower and raise ships between the oceans.
The history of the Panama Canal is fascinating. Started by the French in 1881, it took 33 years before it was completed by the U.S. in 1914. In addition to gorgeous, lush scenery, the canal transit allows travelers to observe its many working locks, displaying how they lower and raise ships between the oceans.
Nick Kontis
The 15-day Aurora journey ends with a walking tour of a walled city, deep within the steamy, pulsating, colorful coastal town of Cartagena de Indias. On weekends revelry continues well into the wee hours of the morning, and you ' ll find parties on the streets. Some guests, including my wife and I, seized the opportunity to explore Colombia.
The 15-day Aurora journey ends with a walking tour of a walled city, deep within the steamy, pulsating, colorful coastal town of Cartagena de Indias. On weekends revelry continues well into the wee hours of the morning, and you'll find parties on the streets. Some guests, including my wife and I, seized the opportunity to explore Colombia.
Nick Kontis
The Getsemani district of Cartagena is decorated with animated, colorful murals on its historic streets. Twenty years ago, the neighborhood was considered too dangerous with gang violence to encourage tourists to visit. Now local street artists have reclaimed their community. Stroll on any night around Plaza de la Santisima Tridad, and you ' ll experience mass revelry.
The Getsemani district of Cartagena is decorated with animated, colorful murals on its historic streets. Twenty years ago, the neighborhood was considered too dangerous with gang violence to encourage tourists to visit. Now local street artists have reclaimed their community. Stroll on any night around  Plaza de la Santisima Tridad, and you'll experience mass revelry.
Nick Kontis
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